On our recent trip to London while exploring the city with the kids, I came to a realization that we were minutes from Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre and that in all the many times I’ve visited, I’ve never been. A Shakespeare fan since high school, I really wanted to visit the home of all his early works. One caveat: my kids were with me.  Would they make it through the 45 minute tour? And I had my niece. It would be a daring feat, but I was determined to try.

A bit of history about the theatre: It was up and running in 1599 and Shakespeare started to have all his shows produced there.  In 1613, during a performance of Henry VIII, wadding from a stage cannon ignited the thatched roof and the theatre burned to the ground ‘all in less than two hours, the people having enough to do to save themselves’. The theatre was quickly rebuilt. Shakespeare may have acted in the second Globe, but he probably never wrote for it, yet it remained the home for Shakespeare’s old company until the closure of all the theatres under England’s Puritan administration in 1642. No longer of use, it was demolished to make room for tenements in 1644.

The Globe, which officially opened in 1997, is a reconstruction of an open-air theatre designed in 1599.  On our tour, where I can proudly say that my kids were the youngest members, we learned about the structure and that the Globe itself wasn’t really circular. To reconstruct it, great care was spent recreating the 16th century look with oak, water reed thatch an staves. Sitting in the seats facing the stage felt very Shakespearean, and it’s amazing to think that it was reconstructed using the imagination. When builders recreated it, they looked to his work for suggestive descriptions included in the plays themselves, such as the famous Chorus which begins Henry V: ‘And shall this cockpit hold the vasty fields of France / Or may we cram within this wooden ‘O’…’  Other than concessions to comply with modern day fire regulations such as additional exits, illuminated signage, fire retardant materials and some modern backstage machinery, the Globe is as accurate a reconstruction of the 1599 Globe as was possible with the available evidence. It was easy for me to imagine my favorite Shakespearea plays being produced on the stage – Othello, A Midsummer Night’s Dream, As You Like It, MacBeth, you name it.

A few fun facts we learned on our tour:

*The timber for The Globe Theatre was actually reused wood from “The Theatre” – an earlier theatre owned by Globe founder Richard Burbage’s father.

*The Globe  had three stories of seating and was able to hold up to 3,000 spectators in it’s 100 foot diameter.

*At the base of the stage was an area called “the pit” which held “the groundlings” – people who paid just a penny to stand and watch a performance.

*There were no actresses performing at The Globe Theatre – or any other theatre at that time. Female roles were played by young boys as theatre stages were considered too risque a place for ladies.

How did my kids and niece endure the tour?  I think they liked climbing through the theater.  While we sat listening to the tour guide in the theater, learning about the Elizabethan era, they curiously watched set designers setting up the stage for that night’s performance.  I can’t say that they truly absorbed everything and are now Shakespeare lovers, but I was proud that they didn’t disrupt the tour and allowed me to indulge my passion while on our short stay in London.

THE SKINNY ON SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE THEATRE:

Address: 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, London

Tour prices: Adults cost £12.50, seniors cost £11.50, students cost £10.50 and children ages 5-15 cost £7.50.

Opening times: October to April: 10am – 5pm; May to October: 9am – 12.30pm

Address: 21 New Globe Walk, The Shakespeare Globe Trust, London, SE1 9DT

Suitable for kids? I don’t see why not. Sitting in a theatre in the round isn’t painful for anyone.

Where to Eat with Kids in London

A Day at London’s Science Museum

Exploring the London Museum of Jewish Life with Kids

London’s Restaurants for Traveling Moms

London on a Budget with Kids

10 Ways to see London on the Cheap

So, since we come here every year, I wanted my kids to see new places and experience different parts of London.  I never come with a set agenda, I like to wing it, and inevitably we find ourselves experiencing London like it’s all new again.  Here are some of the highlights from this year’s trip:

Kensington Palace

I wanted to take my kids to Kensington Palace this trip to introduce them to the Royal Family.  We’d been outside Buckingham Palace last summer for the Changing of the Guard and this year I wanted them to truly experience the “Royal” side of Britain.  Now that they are 7 and 9 and seem to appreciate the history more than before.  Plus, it’s the year of the Queen Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee, so there is a lot to celebrate.  There are four state apartments that we explored: Victoria Revealed – 10 lavishly decorated rooms that tell the story of Queen Victoria’s life, in her own words from letters and diaries, from her birth in the Palace, through her childhood, ascension, marriage, periods of mourning and her own Diamond Jubilee; The King’s Apartments – grand architecture telling the stories of the courts of William and Mary, George I and George II in the 17th and 18th centuries; The Queen’s Apartments – more intimate rooms, lifting the curtain on the private lives of Mary II and Anne and the decline of the Stuart dynasty; Diana: Glimpses of a Modern Princess – a selection of five dresses work by Diana Princess of Wales at different points in her life.

Big Ben, Houses of Parliament

National Gallery

Covent Garden

When the kids started to get tired, as did I, we headed straight to Covent Garden for some free entertainment by street performers.  The area is worked by street performers nearly every day of the year. Many of these performers make the majority of their money working nowhere else. And likewise, many of them have been performing at Covent Garden regularly for 10 years or more.  We actually caught one performer (the one pictured above) who we remember seeing last year.  They’re all very good performers, as a matter of fact, they have to all audition to perform at Covent Garden.  We always grab something to eat and camp out on a curb.  My kids spent the afternoon laughing through magic tricks, break-dancing and comedy….all for free.

Tower of London

Islington Green

Unicorn Theatre

After spending a good part of the week trying to get tickets for Matilda the Musical to no avail, I was hungry for theater.  Fortunately, one day we stumbled into a small children’s theater called the Unicorn Theatre near the London Bridge just before a show was about to start.   It was called “The Legend of Captain Crow’s Teeth” for kids ages 7 and up.  About to rain, and all of us tired from our trip to the top of the London Bridge, we all opted for the show, and what a treat it was.  Based on the book by Eoin Colfer and directed by Matthew Lenton, the show included all professional actors and involved a plot that revolved around pirates and a family on holiday.  The actors were all excellent thespians and were all impressed with the quality of the performance.  The Unicorn was definitely a find for us this trip.

Tate Britain

Tate Britain holds the largest collection of British art in the world. The gallery shows work from the last five centuries, including contemporary British art, in a series of free changing displays.  Their main collection includes masterpieces by British artists such as Hogarth, Gainsborough, Constable, Millais, Burne-Jones, Whistler, Sargent, Sickert, Hepworth and Bacon. The extraordinary work of JMW Turner can be seen in the Clore Gallery.  We looked around and headed to their special expedition, Picasso & Modern British Art.  Determined to really focus on the collection, I purchased the radio tour for all of us.  The exhibit explores Picasso’s extensive legacy and influence on British art, how this played a role in the acceptance of modern art in Britain, alongside the fascinating story of Picasso’s lifelong connections to and affection for this country.  It brings together over 150 spectacular artworks, with over 60 stunning Picassos including sublime paintings from the most remarkable moments in his career, such as Weeping Woman 1937 and The Three Dancers 1925.  It was fascinating to read about his rise in the UK, as well as his impact on so many of the country’s famous artists. Best of all, my kids seemed to appreciate it.

Issy's Milky Way

Issy's Milky way

Issy's Milky Way

We had a lot of child-friendly meals on this trip, but the one that stands out in our memory is Issy’s Milky Way, a new 50s style shake place in Islington’s Camden Passage.  It’s a 1950s soda fountain that serves cheese toasties,shakes and scrumptious cupcakes.  The jukebox, the Felix the Cat clock on the wall, the Elvis memorabilia, the Homemaker China all take you back in time, and my kids loved sitting at the counter watching the owner make traditional toasties.  Located at 28 Camden Passage, this is a real throw back in time and was a great stop with the kids.

Expect to hear more about this trip in the coming weeks.

Disclosure: I paid my own admission into every attraction and restaurant mentioned above.

Tucked away in the beautiful Notting Hill section of London lies a jewel of a hotel, and what you might find a surprisingly child-friendly place to stay. The Hempel is a breath of fresh air for any family wanting a bit of an escape from the excitement and business of London.  Instead of staying in a typical London hotel and getting very little space for your money, The Hempel offers full-size apartments with plenty of space for everyone to spread out and relax after exploring the city.  Best of all, it’s located right next to Hyde Park and Notting Hill and is a hop, skip and jump from some of the best spots for families in London.

Source: The-hempel.co.uk/hotel-gallery

When we arrived at The Hempel, it was late at night, but as we drove into the quaint neighborhood, we were all instantly enraptured.  Facing a beautiful English garden or the “Zen Garden” (that was actually featured in one of my favorite movies “Notting Hill” with Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant), the hotel has a lobby is likely to put you in a zen state as soon as you walk in.  It was made with the most neutral colors and an eye for relaxation.  It’s got minimalist decor and a glowing fireplace that invited my daughter as soon as she walked in.  The staff offered us welcome tea or coffee and graciously helped us to our room, which was surprisingly across the street, with beautiful views of the park in a white Georgian building.

The Hempel comprises fifty individually designed guest rooms, suites and apartments each in its own minimalist style.  We stayed in one of their apartments.  It may be old outside but the inside is completely new and modern. Inspired by the essence of modern and ancient travel, the unique atmosphere of The Hempel achieves balance and harmony through the use of warm lighting and natural materials, associated with the traditional Zen philosophy of Earth, Wood, Metal, Fire and Water.  It’s not cluttered and has a warm palette.

The effect is one of tranquility, even for my kids.  Their beds were positioned by enormous windows with views of the park in the main sitting room, which also has a big sofa and coffee table. They were really comfortable and made full use of the flat screen TV in the main space, watching “Cupcake Wars” on the Food Network, their latest addiction since we’ve been on holiday.   The free Wifi was definitely a perk, after being charged 6 pounds an hour at another boutique hotel on this trip.

The bathroom and cupboards are hidden behind the carefully painted walls.  The kitchen is compact but contains all the amenities you need to feed a family, including a full-size refrigerator.  I love the decor, as a matter of fact, I’d like to decorate my house the same way.

In the morning, we headed to No. 35 Restaurant, headed up by Head Chef, Michael Carter, who works with a seasonal menu offering the best of British and European ingredients – all borne from handpicked, independent suppliers. I had kipper, whilst the kids had cereal, eggs, toast, hot chocolate and juice.  My shameful picky eaters could have had such choice from the English delicacies being offered.

From the hotel, we walked directly to Hyde Park to Princess Diana’s Memorial Playground and then to Kensington Palace.  Straight across the park is the Science Museum, the Victoria & Albert Museum, the Natural History Museum, shopping in Notting Hill, Harrods in Knightsbridge, just to name a few places nearby. After a day of being out and about, we ventured back for snacks and drinks at the bar, where we got lovely tapas and were able to relax.  The hotel really has a zen feeling that stays with you during your stay.

If you’re heading to London anytime soon, check out The Hempel’s web site for the best rates at www.the-hempel.co.uk. The hotel is located at 31-35 Craven Hill Gardens, Bayswater, London, W2 3EA.

London’s Science Museum is no exception – it is indeed magnificent.It was founded in 1857 as part of the South Kensington Museum, and gained independence in 1909. Today the Science Museum is world renowned for its historic collections, awe-inspiring galleries and inspirational exhibitions.

My 6YO son was mesmerized by the section called “Exploring Space”.  He was absolutely enamored by the collection of  rockets, satellites, space probes and landers.  Check him out trying on a real astronaut’s gloves – he was in his element:

Some of the other galleries included:

Lunchpad – Launchpad is every kid’s dream.  It’s a hands on section where they can learn about everything from how light works to the noise and even physics.  It wants children to get inspired and ask questions about the way things work.  Launchpad is open to all, but is particularly aimed at 8- to 14-year-olds, plus their parents and teachers. Under-12s must be accompanied by an adult, and school groups need to pre-book their visit.

Source: http://www.sciencemuseum.org.uk

Anyway, traveling always makes me think about my life.  It opens my eyes to new experiences: visual, emotional and culinary at the same time.  During our time in London, I couldn’t help but reflect back on the time I spent there as a recent college graduate many years ago.  Memories of night after night seeing the finest theatre in the West End, drinking in pubs with friends, spending afternoons watching tennis at Wimbledon and going to the most amazing music festivals came to mind.

But traveling solo and traveling with kids are two very different things, but I’d venture to say that they are equally rewarding.  I’ll never forget taking my daughter to Italy when she was just 1-1/2.  I was pregnant with my second child at the time.  The people in Italy called her “Bambino” and she gleefully ate her way around the country with us. We had a few mishaps – like when we left her only pair of shoes on top of the car and drove off with them, blowing into the air.  We left a friend’s DVD player (our savior at the time on long plane rides) on the plane on the way home and had to buy them a new one (fortunately, we took our Travelex travel insurance).

Traveling with kids definitely brings problems, but you get through them.  A few years after our trip to Italy, we took the kids to Prague and Berlin at ages 1 and 2.  I remember long evenings in the hotsel room with crying babies who were having trouble adjusting to the new culture, as well as behaving on the train rides in between countries.  But the next day while touring around some of the world’s must beautiful cities, we were reminded of exactly why we were there:  To expose both them and us to new cultures and places.  If they were going to cry or be wingy, why not be wingy with us on the road?  Otherwise, we’d never go anywhere.

This year our travels took us to the UK and France.  Now my kids are ages 6 and 8.  Times have changed since they were younger.  I’ll not too soon forget the looks on their faces when they went to the top of the Eiffel Tower.  Nor will I soon forget walking around the D’Orsay Museum and hearing from my 8YO daughter her knowledge the life and history of several impressionist artists.  I loved tasting various crepes with them, of course nutella reigned as the all-time favorite for all of us.  I loved walking around my favorite part of Paris with my daughter, Le Marais, and telling her about the area’s history as she seriously hang on to every word.  I also enjoyed shopping with her, something I have never been able to do before.  As for my son, he has been to England so many times, but at age 6, he doesn’t remember much.  The joy my husband got taking him to the Manchester United Stadium will stand out in my memory.  During our visit to the Jewish Museum in London, they both asked all the right questions. Traveling with them just gets better and better. They’re even trying new foods and the act of keeping a travel journal is becoming more natural to them both.

But I do think that starting when our kids were young helped mold them into solid travelers today.  My husband and I never shied away from far away destinations because we have kids.  Their experiences will follow them for the rest of their lives and shape who they are.  They will be adventurous and open-minded forever more, remembering the time our family slept in a small apartment in the Bastille neighborhood in Paris with no working lamps and the time we got lost looking for our friends house near Avignon.  Both experiences worked out – we liked our little Parisian flat and we found our friend’s home.  In both places, we hang out with the natives and we have memories that will last a lifetime.

So, what’s stopping you from traveling with your kids?   If it’s money, you can get around that by traveling locally.  If it’s early wake-ups or difficulties sleeping or keeping you up, they’ll pass and life will continue, either on the trip or after.  Don’t be scared.  Embrace the challenges of traveling with your children and open up their eyes to what the world has to offer.

1977 Queen’s Silver Jubilee, Manchester

From left to right: Cecil Fink (my father-in-law who was Mayor of Trafford), Queen Elizabeth, Phillip the Duke of Edinburgh, Shirley Fink (my mother-in-law)

In addition to the article, I want to elaborate on where to eat and stay.  I spent a year living in London after college, and we go as a family every year, so I have traveled both on a budget and as a family in the grand city rather.  While I will admit that eating in London can be quite expensive, it doesn’t have to be.  First of all, if you like Indian food, you can get great Indian food all over the city, without breaking the bank.  There is a large concentration of Indian eateries in Brick Lane, which is in East London, where people flock to for great value.

Eating in Central London isn’t cheap, but there are chains like Pizza Express that’s all over the city that offers set meal prices (pizza, drink and dessert) and are extremely kid-friendly.  There’s also China Town, where you can grab a bowl of soup and egg rolls.  When I was a young girl living in London, my favorite restaurant was Stockpot, and it’s still around.  For 5 pounds or so, you get shepherd’s pie or chicken pot pie – proper home-cooked meals that are incredibly delicious and hearty.  And really generous portions.  God, I loved that place.  Walking around Leicester Square, there’s also pizza for a pound and the food gallery at Covent Garden where you can pick something up and watch the buskers.  Wagamama is the most excellent noodle restaurant where you eat at long tables.  There are 15 locations all over town.

On our recent visit to London, we were very happy to discover that most restaurants offer a children’s menu.  Not only that, but they offer a range of choices aimed toward children with healthy options.  Here are a few of the restaurants to keep in mind on your next family visit to London, as well as one hotel suggestion:

Gourmet Burger

Gourmet Burger is a chain located all over the London.  They offer a wide variety of types of hamburgers with sauces ranging from horseradish to Cajun.  They also serve chicken and lamb, as well as a variety of vegetarian options.  Their burgers are about £7-8 each and are quite large.  Their junior menu is £5.95 and offers hamburgers, lentil or chicken burgers or chicken nuggets with the choice of a drink.   The setting is very casual and perfect for kids.  The chain was founded by a couple of New Zealanders in 2001 and has a relaxed Kiwi kind of feeling.   My kids really liked the food and it was easy on the wallet.  We went to the Belsize Park location, but you can check the web site for other locations.

Sunny Hill Café

Sunny Hill Café is located in Sunny Hill Park in Hendon in the northern bit of the city.  It’s Israeli-owned and offers a variety of English and Israeli cuisine options.  They have tables inside and out facing the park’s open fields.  I love that you can order falafel, hummus, lentil soup and more.  It’s such an unusual menu for a cafe in a park.  Meanwhile, the kids can munch on the usual kid’s fare, as well as ice-cream, when they need a  break from playing in the park’s very fantastic playground.  On a Saturday, you will feel like you are in a bit of Israel given the ambience and clientele.

Giraffe

When you Google “family friendly restaurants in London,” Giraffe will be one of the first results to pop up.  We went to the location in Belsize Park near our hotel, but there are Giraffe restaurants all over London.   Kids can eat for £3.95 and have options like fish & chips with peas, meatballs & pasta, pizza, hamburger, chicken and lots of dessert and drinks options.  They give out crayons and an activity before the meal and have a lot of options for adults including salads, Mexican, burgers and more.  The only thing I advise not to order is the salad.  The UK doesn’t have their salad-making abilities just yet, they need some help on that front.

Hampstead Creperie

In the middle of Hampstead’s busy High Street is a crepe stand that has been in the same spot for years.  There’s always a line, anytime of day.  You can order sweet or savory crepes; of course my kids chose the chocolate ones.  They cost only a few pounds and melt in your mouth.  This was a place I have never forgotten and still holds true to its promise.  The chocolate ones are quite messy, so take wipes.  There is no seating, but there are wipes nearby to sit on while you carefully devour a crepe made in heaven.

Curry Manjil Restaurant

No visit to London is complete without having a full blown curry.  One of our kids loves Indian food; the other is not so sure.  But we absolutely adore it.  So, on our last night in town, we dragged them to a local Indian restaurant to get our annual dose at Curry Manjil.   It has good ambience and very solid food.   You can probably get spicier, cheaper food in Brick Lane or Bayswater, but if you’re in Northern London, this is a good choice.

Waterside Café at Warwick Crescent in Little Venice

Located in a floating boat, this was an unexpected treat and quite a find.  The menu offers English fare and has indoor and outdoor seating.    They serve breakfast and lunch or you can have sweets and tea.  The prices are really reasonable.  The kids ordered eggs on toast, and I had a salad with hummus and pita.  Afterwards, you can walk around the canals.

And now for some hotel advice:

Premiere Inn

We actually stayed in various Premiere Inns the entire time we were in London.  Breakfast is £7.50 per adults; kids are free.  It’s a full buffet, offering everything from hot to cold foods.  It’s a very good English breakfast.  If you are looking for a reasonable hotel stay in the city of London, the Premiere Inn is definitely checking out.  Hotel rooms are not cheap, and this will be one of your less expensive options.  For your information, we paid £50 pounds for a family room in Manchester, breakfast included; £129 pounds in Belsize Park, just outside the center of London, breakfast not included.  The London location was particularly good; it was a short walk to the tube that takes you right to the center of town, and also a short walk to the lovely Hampstead Heath.

London has so many culinary options and hotels; this is only a short list.  But if you have a trip planned and want to have some family-friendly options on hand, keep these in mind.

Some of my favorite neighborhoods to eat at in London are Chelsea (they have a terrific crepe restaurant called My Old Dutch), Camden (there are loads of options to consider while exploring the market’s stalls), Islington, Chalk Farm, Highgate and Belsize Park.  Pubs offer great chow (“pub grub”).  You usually order off the black board and have a seat, order some ale and relax.  In the suburbs, these are proper country pubs.  Many have soft play areas for kids.

One last mention about where to stay in London.  The more central you stay, the smaller your room, and the more expensive the room.  The further out you go, the more space you get (which is good for kids) and the less you’ll pay.  As long as you’re near a tube line, you’ll be in good shape.

We go to the UK every year to visit family and friends.  We rarely ever have time to do anything touristy, and I have often longed to venture into the West End or Chelsea to do some sight-seeing.  This time, instead of running around between family and friends, I opted for a few real days out in the city.  I decided that I wanted to share a city that I lived in as a young adult with my children.

I’ve written a few blogs about our visit over on TravelingMom.com.  Here are the links:


10 Ways to See London on the Cheap

London on a Budget with Kids

London’s Restaurants for Traveling Moms

This one is not about London, but much of it’s content derived from our recent trip there:

Don’t Get Ripped Off When Traveling Abroad

20 Tips for Traveling with Challenging Children

In the next few days, I’ll be blogging about our trip to Israel.  I can’t wait to share my experiences from our travels in one of the most beautiful, peaceful places in the world.